This is going to be a personal story, a detective thriller, a biography and a history book. I spent a long time looking for his body, and then I spent a long time trying to prove that he climbed his nemesis before it killed him. My family had a unique relationship with Everest, and this helped me to climb the mountain and to find clues to what happened to Mallory, its most famous opponent. I make no apology for this, for I think I have finally solved the mystery of what happened there on 8 June 1924, when Mallory and his young companion Sandy Irvine disappeared into clouds, climbing strongly towards the top. This volume is going to add to the vast pile of books about Mount Everest, a pile that must now must be higher than the mountain. It has cost me my marriage, my home and half my possessions. It is a moral crucible in which we are tested, and usually found wanting. I am drawn back because I see there the extremes of human experience played out in the most dramatic surroundings: greed and betrayal, loyalty and courage, endurance and defeat. I have spent over two years of my life on the mountain, returning there again and again. 7 1922, and the First Attempt to Climb Mount EverestĨ ‘No trace can be found, given up hope …’
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